With Special thanks to Multiflex Veneers for this post.

The use of a veneer press, either a vacuum, cold or hot press using white or yellow glue, is the preferred method of applying wood veneer. If press is not available, good contact cement may be used. Look for contact cement with the highest level of solids and follow the adhesive manufacturer instructions. (Flammable contact cement most often works better than nonflammable.)

1. It is critical to the application to thoroughly stir the adhesives before each use, just as in painting. The solids and solvents must be mixed to form the best contact. Most people overlook this very important step. It is also critical to dry thoroughly — lightly touch to check if it is dry. If even the lest bit tacky, allow to dry thoroughly. Store cans of finishes and contact cement off the floor during winter months.
2. ALSO, IT IS EXTREMELY CRITICAL to use maximum pressure when smoothing out the veneer. DO NOT USE A “J” ROLLER to smooth out flexible veneer. Instead use a scrap piece of wood approximately 12″ long and 6″ wide as a veneer scraper. Lightly sand the 6″ edge to take the sharpness away and create a slight radius, the smaller the radius the better as it will produce the greatest pressure. A 1/16″ radius will produce 4 time more pressure than a 1/4″ radius. Holding the scraper with both hands and using it like a wooden squeegee smooth out the veneer from the center outward to the edges.
3. While paper-backed veneer is intended for interior use, it can be used on an exterior surface only if an expoxy application is used.
4. Veneer must be bonded to a suitable substrate of a reliable quality. MDF (medium density fiberboard) is the most stable substrate, followed by industrial particleboard, veneer-core plywood, and the least stable substrate is hardwood.
5. We do not recommend direct application to drywall, plaster walls, concrete walls or cardboard products, as delamination may occur. Veneer should be applied to MDF substrate to cover these surfaces. Installation over sub-strates that have been treated with a fire-retardant agent is not recom-mended.
6. When veneering over bending plywood materials, we have found that laminating an 1/8” MDF over the surface makes it more stable (1/8” MDF can bend around a 2’ – 3’ radius).
7. Prior to installation, the veneer should be allowed to “climatize” with the substrate in the same environment for about 48 hours. Make sure that both the surface to be covered and the back of the veneer are free of dust, dirt, oil, grease or any foreign matter.
8. To avoid sealing in too much moisture, it is best to finish the veneer when the humidity is less than 51%, as it may shrink when placed in a climate-controlled environment.
9. Wood veneers rely 100% on the adhesive. Ask your supplier which content cement contains the most solids. Even though it is more expensive, it is goes much farther and will be less costly in the long run. Both the veneer back and the substrate require 100% contact cement coverage. Often, a second coat is needed on the substrate, as the first coat may be partially absorbed. The first coat is acting as a sealer, the second coat is the glue.
10. Allow the proper drying time (“flash time”) between coats. Normally there is a generous window of time. Glues should be completely dry before applying the veneer. Anything less creates the risk of a weak bond between the two glue lines. Rushing can lead to solvent pockets appearing as bubbles.
11. When using contact cement, a pinch roller is preferred for pressing veneer on the substrate as the amount of pressure is very important to activate the glue. A flexible wood scraper may be used if a roller is not available. Do not use a J-roller, as it does not allow you to apply enough pressure directly onto the veneer. Also, to avoid bubbling when hand pressing your veneer on the boards, be sure to start in the middle of the board and work your way to the outer edges.
12. After applying veneer, allow adhesive to dry 24 hours before applying any finish. Apply the finish in light, even coats. Two thin coats are always better than one heavy coat. Allow 24 hours drying time between stain and sealer to let stain totally dry.
13. When finishing veneer with two-part catalyzed finishes, be careful not to make your finish too thick. Some finishes will crack or check when they are more than 4 mils thick. Check with a finish manufacturer. Vinyl sanding sealer is a good choice when sealing your furniture, as it has excellent moisture and vapor resistance.
14. Check finish instructions to make sure that you have the proper time and temperature for your veneer to dry. (Example: catalyst finish should dry at 68-75-degrees for six to eight hours.) It may be a good idea to take a short course on stains and finishes. Some companies offer these courses for little or no money. They can be most helpful. M.L. Campbell is one such company.
15. Water-born stains and finishes are not recommended for finishing veneer, unless you seal the veneer with a vinyl or acrylic sanding sealer first.
16. Do not apply veneer to a two-sided melamine coated board. Do not sand melamine from a two-sided melamine board to apply veneer, as bubbling could result. If board comes from a manufacturer with one side melamine and the other side raw, you may apply the veneer to the raw side of the board.

We receive so many calls about the different wood veneers that are available in the market today. With Terms like Rift Cut, flat sliced, and rotary cut it can be a difficult task just to know what to ask for. With many thanks to Multifex Veneers we offer this helpful guide:

Veneer cutting methods

Rotary-Cut Veneer

Rotary-Cut Veneer is manufactured by advancing a rotating log against a stationary knife. Since this cut follows the log’s annual growth rings, a wide, bold grain pattern is produced. Rotary cut veneer is a cost effective method to obtain remarkable effects from birch, maple and oak.

Plain-Sliced Veneer

Plain-Sliced Veneer is the most widely used in architectural doors. It is manufactured by advancing a half log against a stationary knife in an up-and-down movement. The resulting cut is characterized by straight grain intermixed with cathedrals. This method is moderately priced and is available for most wood species.

Quarter-Sliced Veneer

Quarter-Sliced Veneer uses the same cutting method as plain-sliced veneer, except the log is cut into quarters prior to slicing. This method bisects annual growth rings and results in a straight grain or ribbon-striped (mahogany) appearance. Due to low yield from the log, this veneer is usually more costly.

Rift-Cut Veneer

Rift-Cut Veneer uses various species of oak. The rift, or comb-grain effect, is obtained by slicing slightly across the medullary rays. This accentuates the vertical grain and minimizes the flake. Rift-cut veneers are more expensive due to lower yield from the log.

Long sliced (also called Marunaca)

Long sliced (also called Marunaca): is made by slicing a wood beam gently through the growth rings, this method accentuates the vertical grain and minimise flakes. This type of cut is more expensive then Quarted and Flat cut.

Half round

Half round is made by cutting the block parallel to the growth rings. As this cut follows the growth rings of the tree, a sequence of prononced large grain will forme. The half round is a low coast type of cut as the flat cut that gives a nice look with the Birch, Maple and Oak.

Welcome to the Raincoast Door Blog! Raincoast Door & Specialty Wood Products Inc. has been a supplier to cabinet makers, mill-workers and furniture makers for over 15 years. We represent a number of manufacturers in Canada and the USA and distribute products ranging from cabinet and passage doors through to butcher block counters, mouldings and in cabinet lighting.

We at Raincoast by no means profess to be experts but over the 15 years of working with the cabinet makers, interior finisher carpenters and the home construction trades of Vancouver Island we have come to know some very skilled and talented people who are. We have created this blog in an effort to share some of their insights and to create an open place for discussion for professionals and general home owners alike. We very much intend this to be an interactive forum and welcome anyone to post a question or comment. While we will be moderating this forum it is done in an effort to keep all of the information clean and user friendly. Please comment on any article that you see and feel free to contact us directly about any topics in particular that you would like discussed.

Here are some of the topic ideas that have been suggested to us that we intend to cover over the next several articles:

Cabinet re-facing

What is it?

Can & should you attempt it yourself

Tricks and Tips

Wood Veneer

Wood species, cuts and characteristics

Layup definitions “grain matching, slip matching, etc”

Edges and the process of lamination

Finishes

The great eco debate. Can you achieve a “traditional finish”

Spray, oil and brushed finishes explained

Stains, what to know and expect with stained finishes

For home owners

So your thinking of replacing your kitchen…..

How to help your designer and cabinet maker help you.

Limitations and cost control in kitchen design

Kitchen installation, what to know and expect.